Castor Membership July 2023: Kaitiakitanga and Winery in the Clouds
The 100-hectare estate vineyard of Te Pa, Wairau Bar, Marlborough, New Zealand.
“Kaitiakitanga”
Te Pa Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand 2022
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. The wine category that turns otherwise professional wine writers into jelly. Think about the words that are syonymous with Kiwi Sauvignon:
“Grapefruit”. Ok, here at least we have an actual fruit descriptor, a fruit which many of us normal folks are familiar with and enjoy eating, although the shriveled pucker that our face becomes as we consume it is not exactly a glowing endorsement.
“Gooseberry”. Another actual fruit, albeit one that the average consumer does not possess in their wheelhouse, unless that person is standing next to a wooden crate at a farmer’s market for the five minutes they are in season. Nevertheless, gooseberries are a tasting note in virtually every so-called critic’s assessment of Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand.
“Cat Pee”. If you aren’t familiar and you think I’m only joking, go ahead and Google it. “New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc Cat’s Pee” has the internet buzzing, with everyone from venerated Masters of Wine to www.newscientist.com weighing in. Thought to be the result of thiols, an organic compound that contains sulphur, this, ahem, “attribute” in New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc has become such an accepted taste profile and prevalent train of thought that there’s even a NZ wine called “Cat’s Pee on a Gooseberry Bush”, which to my ear sounds more like a country song than a bottling name, and a damn entertaining one at that.
The point of my little rant here is that for every wine region, there comes a moment of reckoning in which long-accepted flavor characteristics thought to be indicative of the “style” of the area, i..e. “Barnyard” in Burgundy, or “Pencil Shavings” in Bordeaux, or the “Dill” in Spain’s Rioja, are rightfully reassessed. We in the wine trade have the duty of asking ourselves the question, “Yes, the wines CAN taste like that, but do they HAVE TO taste like that?” The Tempranillo grape doesn’t have to be oaked to death in American barrels for ages, as was the custom in Rioja. Underripe Cabernet Sauvignon on gravel soil can be avoided in Bordeaux. And pair cleaner winemaking with better fruit in Burgundy and you won’t often find notes of, well, whatever “barnyard” is meant to convey.
As wine professionals, our answer to the “Can, but Does It Have To” question, and what we pass along to our clientele in terms of examples, will go a long way towards shaping both future flavor preferences in our guests and the ecological choices that winemakers and wineries make in the vineyard and cellar. In the world of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, and specifically the grape’s principal Marlborough region, I say the demise of “cat pee” is nigh; all we need is a Kaitiaki, willing to practice some Kaitiakitanga. Sounds simple enough…right?
Te Pa owner Haysley MacDonald and family.
The two islands that make up New Zealand have been home to the Maori people for centuries. Orginally settlers from East Polynesia, the first Maori arrived via canoe over 650 years ago, remaining in isolation from European contact until the 1700s, by which time they had developed their own culture, language, and customs. As New Zealand was increasingly populated by Europeans, things came to a head at the end of the 19th century: in 1877, a peace and land treaty that had been negotiated was nullified, and Maori citizens were forced for the most part to assimilate themselves into Western culture. Much of their familial land and holdings were confiscated, a shameful fate for a people who defined their existence by their relationship with nature. Maori often refer to themselves as tangata whenua, “people of the land”. Happily, the latter half of the 20th century brought renewed recognition and respect for the Maori people in New Zealand life, but there is still much work to be done, as the ethnic group remains one of the poorest in the country, with lower life expectancies than other heritages on the islands.
Haysley MacDonald may have a decidedly European name, but he is proudly Maori descended, and the MacDonald family can trace their etymological roots in Marlborough back nearly 800 years. In the 20th century, Haysley’s family operated farmland on Marlborough’s Wairau Bar, a small escarpment of land between the Wairau River and the Cloudy Bay. Cloudy Bay, of course, has become synonymous with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, after Western Australia’s Cape Mentelle put down roots in Marlborough and named their winery after the Bay. Cloudy Bay became a marketing sensation, and their smoky, grapefruit-and-herb style of Sauvignon Blanc, with both fruit and acid on a much more overt level than their French counterparts, became ubiquitous. Indeed, as the New Zealand wine industry became commercialized, the fruit profiles of NZ Sauvignon Blanc were defined as much by their treatment as their terroir. The organic Thiols compound, that is thought to contribute to our favorite “cat pee” flavor profile, is often a product of fermentation temperature, underlining one of the adages of winemaking that is often left out of the sales pitch to consumers. Make a lot of wine in a quasi-industrial setting, and the temperature of fermentation will increase. Increase the temperature of a fermentation, and more byproducts will result, including thiols and, maybe more critically, amines, chief among them histamine-you know, the kind of thing many of us take ANTI-histamines for on a daily basis. When Haysley and his family made the choice to give up farming and convert their 100 hectare-estate into grapevines in 2003, they did so with a different idea in mind, one that included cherishing the terroir that they’d managed to hold on to-in Maori, Haysley became a Kaitiaki, a “guardian” of the land, and with his sustainable farming, tried to root his new winery, called Te Pa, in the principles of Kaitiakitanga: the practices of caring for the sky, sea, and land.
Te Pa’s holdings have expanded since their founding to include vineyards in the Redwood Hills area of Marlborough, which produces about 50% of the fruit that goes into their Sauvignon Blanc.
The Wairau Bar is a special place within the larger appellation of Marlborough, and an ideal location for Sauvignon Blanc. The adjoining bodies of water (the Wairau River and Cloudy Bay) mediate vineyard temperatures and encourage air flow, while their position at sea level make for some of the lowest diurnal temperature shifts in all of New Zealand. The result? A very even ripening of the grapes, along with increased health of the vines themselves. In addition, a cornucopia of soil types ranging from rich fertile loams on top of alluvial riverbed, to sandy and silty ground near the sea, give the relatively small vineyard area the chance for even more complexity.
When Te Pa released their first vintage in 2011, they immediately were recognized for pulling Sauvignon Blanc out of an underripe, overly astringent box that the market had created for itself; even tasting their current 2022 offering, the biggest surprise is in fact the generous, round texture, still crackling with beautiful acidity but better equipped to handle it via soft, tropical notes of guava and key lime. Sauvignon Blanc’s more aggressive tendencies are further mitigated by some aging on light lees, and a small percentage of new oak used in the aging on some of the juice, a fact noticed only texturally on the palate, rather than conveying any real wood flavors.
The MacDonalds are not a small operation any longer; additional vineyard purchases in the cooler Redwood Hills subzone of Marlborough have seen Te Pa’s total holdings grow to some 400 hectares. Still, they make a number of different cuvees from their new land, and the artisanal tactics of their beginnings are at play: very low yields and equally strict harvesting, with hand-picking and whole-bunch pressing occurring in roughly half of the final blend of the 2022. With 75% of the juice from their original homestead and 25% from the cooler Redwood Hills, the blocks being fermented separately before ultimately coalescing, the Te Pa 2022 is a delight to enjoy and sets a different bar when it comes to what we should taste, and expect, in a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Thanks to Haysley and his family and their practice of Kaitiakitanga, writing those four words in succession no longer gives me pause. I don’t often quote critical results, but Decanter magazine’s 95-point rating of the 2022Te Pa is validation of its standing as an amazing bottle of wine for the price-and certainly a lot more entertaining than reading about “cat pee”-D.
Te Pa Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, 2022
Country of Origin: New Zealand.
Places and People: Te Pa owner Haysley MacDonald is of native Maori ancestry, and can trace his family roots in Marlborough back over 800 years. In 2003, MacDonald and his family decided to convert their 100 hectare estate from farmland to vineyards, and 8 years later produced their first vintage. The estate is located on the Wairau Bar in Marlborough, an escarpment of land nestled between the river of the same name and Cloudy Bay in the east; vines planted here are known for their low yields, early and even ripening, and lower diurnal shifts. The Te Pa Sauvignon Blanc is produced from the best blocks of both this estate vineyard and their vineyard in Redwood Hills, which is slightly higher at 120m ASL and possesses a cooler climate.
Soil: The Wairau Bar soil has alluvial deposits from the river, as well as loam, sand, and shingle. The Redwood Hills vineyards are planted on loess, clay, and stony loam.
Grape Varieties: 100% Sauvignon Blanc.
Winemaking: The best blocks of both the original family vineyard on Wairau Bar and their holdings in Redwood Hills are harvested separately, with 50% of the total juice being whole-bunch pressed. Separate fermentation of the blocks provides greater expression of terroir; this occurs mostly in stainless steel before the blending of the blocks is made.
Aging: The Te Pa is brought together after blending and aged briefly on light lees (spent yeasts left over from fermentation), providing a buffer against Sauvignon Blanc's noted astringency. A small percentage of new oak is also used in the final aging process; the effect is merely one of textural roundness and no oak notes are present in tasting (see notes below).
Flavors and Foods: The first thing immediately discernible about the Te Pa is its relative subtlety; all of the elements that define Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough are present, and yet they function harmoniously rather than stabbing disjointedly at the nose and palate. Lemongrass and stony earth on the nose? Yes, but wonderfully in check. Acidity on the palate? You can bet the bracing spritz is there, but serving to provoke your thirst instead of snuffing it out. The biggest difference between Te Pa and other NZ Sauvignon at this price point? The manner of the fruit. Grapefruit and gooseberries, two fruits quoted ad nauseum in SB writeups, barely register-instead, the Te Pa is intensely tropical: guava, key lime, and ripe peach come together in a complex blend both refreshing as well as a welcome refresher for this oft-maligned wine category. Fresh, thankfully-not-underripe herbs (chervil and cilantro) dazzle, the small amount of oak used to nurture the wine is imperceptible, and the finish is of medium length, allowing all of these characteristics to dispel themselves and invite your next sip, which if we’re treating ourselves really should come alongside a plate of fresh shellfish, grilled chicken breasts with pesto (or the nut-free French pistou), or fire-cooked squid in a marinade of garlic and herbs.
Service and Cellar: The Te Pa 2022 is fresh and vibrant and should be enjoyed thusly-drink this delectable Sauvignon Blanc this year. Serve the Te Pa on the lower end of the white wine cellar temperature spectrum (46-48 degrees F); the tropical fruit notes still show themselves well a little chillier, and the colder temp keeps Sauvignon Blanc’s acidity at bay.
One of the highest elevations in the world for winegrowing, Argentina’s Valle de Uco hosts vineyard sites that are entirely unique.
“‘Winery in the Clouds”
Andeluna Malbec “Altitud”, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina 2020
To my eyes and ears, one of the more unfortunate pieces of film acting in the “Star Wars” franchise comes during “The Empire Strikes Back”, when Mark Hamill’s Luke Skywalker has a vision and says to Frank Oz’s Yoda, “I saw…I saw a city in the clouds”, in a breathless gush straight out of Teen Beat Magazine circa 1979. To be fair, I’m not a huge Star Wars person, which is to say that while I own the movies and have seen the original triolgy 1.6 million times, you won’t find me at the nearest convention hall on a Tuesday afternoon dressed as Chewbacca and speaking in authentic Wookie. However, I must admit that the entire time I was writing tasting notes for this month’s Castor feature wine, I kept (to my great self-amusement) breathlessly gushing out Luke’s line, paraphrased to suit my subject:
“I saw…I saw a winery in the clouds.”
And I of course made sure (again, for my merriment only, as no one else in their right mind would enjoy this) to respond as Yoda:
“Wine they have there.”
This anecdote is firm evidence of two things, one being that the Argentine wine region of Valle de Uco does indeed look as though it was conceived in a galaxy far, far, away. The other? Working in an office alone is potentially harmful to your sanity. Luckily, my awful Star Wars-themed Dad jokes don’t get in the way of my palate, and the “Altitud” Malbec from Andeluna Cellars gets serious on the subject of pleasure in the glass.
A map showing Valle de Uco’s placement in the Mendoza region (right), and in Argentina at large (left).
The wine region of Mendoza, to most the calling card for fine wine in the country, is a latitudinal equal to the capital of Buenos Aires, but over 650 miles removed to the west. In fact, it is Chile’s capital of Santiago that would stand as a relative neighbor to Mendoza at just 226 miles; however, the majestic and fearsome presence of the Andes mountains makes the journey slightly more challenging, as to approach Mendoza from Chile by plane is to fly over the tallest stretch of this mountain range, over 20,000 feet in elevation. The peaks of the Andes also serve to hold moisture at bay, and Mendoza is nearly desert-like in its dryness. At normal elevations, this abundance of sunshine and lack of water would be a death sentence to viticulture, but with some of the highest plantings in the world, Mendoza wines are able to hold acidity and keep alcohol levels balanced.
To fully appreciate the quality level of the terroir that this month’s Castor Red enjoys, we need to dive three levels deep: the broader Mendoza region, named after the city of the same name, stretches for hundreds of miles on a north-south axis and is home to more than 800 wineries, by far the most of any wine zone in the country. The Mendoza subzone that conjures the most magic in the minds of oenophiles is the Valle de Uco, to the south and west of Mendoza city and tucked up against the Andes themselves. The idea of a valley here is a little bit of a misnomer; the altitudes in Valle de Uco range from 2,950 to 4,900 feet above sea level, making this area both higher and cooler than any other region with its eye on red grape varietals (the northern Argentine region of Salta boasts some of the highest vineyards in the world at close to 9,000 feet in spots, but planted mainly to white wines).
The third level of our “box-within-a-box” exploration of Mendoza begins at the town of Tupungato, in Valle de Uco’s northwest corner. In the shadow of the Andes and at just a shade under 3,500 feet above sea level, Tupungato’s vineyards are the highest in the region, and the climate features cool nights that promote complexity and delicacy of fruit, while acidity levels are sufficient enough to allow for white wine production. Finally, a small pocket of high-mineral soil, filled with rock and calcareous elements, marks the Gualtallary area within Tupungato. One of the most prestigious wine-producing regions in Argentina, the Gualtallary is home to only 8 of those 800 Mendoza wineries that I mentioned earlier, and its porous soils and positioning in the mountains mean the grapes cultivated here sport naturally low yields and a heady amount of viscous intensity. One of these 8 wineries was founded in 2003 by a North American investor named Ward Lay; paying homage to both the Andes and the magical effect of the moon and lunar cycles on the life of the grapevine, Lay named his project Andeluna.
Andeluna’s cellars and tasting room during more favorable times/climes.
Andeluna grew in stature in the years following its inception, and in 2011 when Ward Lay passed away, the winery was taken over by the Barale family. By this time Andeluna was already known to possess excellent terroir here in the Gualtallary, with vineyards that rose above the town of Tupungato (the Malbec for the “Altitud” is produced at over 4,200 feet above sea level).
Andeluna specializes in the main red grape of Argentina, the Bordeaux-descended Malbec. I have written before about my qualms with Malbec produced in Argentina, so I’ll spare you, except to say that unlike many Mendoza properties, where generous investment has often pushed Malbec past its comfort zone and structural capabilities, proritizing a swath of new oak flavors and over-extracted fruit over balance and finesse, Andeluna shows a welcome measure of restraint. The “Altitud” is aged in new, 1-year, and 2-year old barrels, but 70% of the wine is in the latter category-the result is that the heady concentration of their high-elevation fruit is the dominant factor, thick and lush on the palate. For an area that is so mountainous, the warm, dry conditions allow for great ripeness, but thankfully again, winemaker Manuael Gonzalez Bals has found equilibrium in the finish, which for a 15% abv wine is measured, almost mild. What comes prior to the end of your sip, however, is anything but; deep cassis mingled with rocky earth that is immensely pleasurable and speaks to a level of luxury that belies this bottle’s price point and leads the Andeluna past the label of “House Wine” and straight to the GWC concept of a “Home Wine”. When it comes to conceptual quotes, I’m no Yoda, but my moniker for this “Winery in the Clouds” will have to do-D.
Andeluna Malbec “Altitud”, Valle de Uco, Mendoza 2020
Country of Origin: Argentina.
Places and People: Named for the ever-present Andes mountains and the guiding nature of the moon on viticulture ("luna"), Andeluna was founded in 2003 by North American investor Ward Lay, but is currently owned by the native Barale family following Lay's passing in 2011. The key to Andeluna is its location-within Mendoza's subzone Valle de Uco, which is already known for its high-elevation position in the shadow of the Andes, there is an even more exclusive area called Gualtallary, near the winery's village of Tupungato: Gualtallary is a rocky, mineral-laden perch that is even higher than the rest of the Valle and is home to just 8 wineries, representing less than 1% of the wineries in all of Mendoza. The primary fruit for the Altitud is sourced at 1,300 meters above sea level!
Soil: Rocky, calcareous earth that possesses and extremely high mineral content and, together with the elevated terroir, contributes to extremely low yields.
Grape Varieties: 100% Malbec.
Winemaking: After a rigorous hand-harvesting and assortment, the grapes for the "Altitud" are macerated and then fermented with natural yeasts in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks.
Aging: The "Altitud" employs a judicious aging regiment that incorporates Malbec's structure properly and contributes to the wine's excellent balance: the wine is aged new, 1 year old, and 2 year old French oak barrels, and 70% of the final blend is aged in the latter. Aging in oak is completed after 8-12 months and then cellared in bottles for a minimum of 6 months as well prior to release.
Flavors and Foods: An overarching thought: I believe the 2020 Altitud to be the best Malbec available in this market for the price, and I'm not even sure it's that close. The nose is more reminiscent of a fine Cabernet, with the low-yielding vines giving generous blackberry, red and black cassis, and rocky, leaden earth notes behind the fruit. If it's possible for one to be able to smell thickness, this wine has it. The palate is similarly dense, with the mix of black and red cassis, red currant, blackberry jam, and dark plums sporting an inky viscosity that you frankly just don't see that often at this price level. The mineral notes behind the fruit appear mid-palate and Malbec's place as a varietal with origins in Bordeaux are made apparent by the gravel/graphite non-fruit. The texture of the Altitud is silky smooth, and there is a balance to the finish that belies the ripenss of these grapes: in other words, the wine's finish is lengthy but stays rooted in the back of the mouth rather than the chest, and the Altitud does not end warmly despite its 15% Abv. The balance between fruit and tannin is excellent. It is easy to gush about how the 2020 Altitud will sublimely accompany a well-marbled, fatty steak cut that has been wood-fired, but outside of that well-worn box, I think the wine could pair nicely with lamb (slowly braised breast preferably, which is a fattier cut than shoulder, leg, or shank), barbecued pork (lightly sauced spareribs especially), or even grilled vegetables with a higher water content such as zucchini and eggplant, served with a fine olive oil.
Service and Cellar: The integrated tannins and measured use of new oak in the 2020 Altitud lead me to believe that this wine can easily last the decade, should you possess the discipline to cellar it. The wine is drinking well now but as with any full-bodied red it would be well-served by a 30-60 minute decant prior to pouring, and in keeping with the aforementioned 15% alcohol content, a red wine cellar temperature of 56-60 degrees is highly recommended.